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Moutai--the national liquor 文/陈颂英 图/童 俭 张兴涛
China's powerful, heady Moutai, along
with the Scotish Whiskey, French (Cognac) Brandy and Russian Vodka, is one
of the most famous liquors in the world. Its name comes from the town of
Maotai near the Chishui River in Guizhou Province, where the liquor was
first distilled. In 1741, the sixth year of the Qing Emperor Qianlong
reign, the Sichuan Governor Zhang Guanxi organized the dredging of the
Chishui River to transport salt from Sichuan to Guizhou. The village grew
into a major port for salt. China's powerful, heady
Moutai, along with the Scotish Whiskey, French (Cognac) Brandy and Russian
Vodka, is one of the most famous liquors in the world. Its name comes from
the town of Maotai near the Chishui River in Guizhou Province, where the
liquor was first distilled. In 1741, the sixth year of the Qing Emperor
Qianlong reign, the Sichuan Governor Zhang Guanxi organized the dredging
of the Chishui River to transport salt from Sichuan to Guizhou. The
village grew into a major port for salt. Moutai liquor is older than
the town. According to a Song Dynasty book about liquor, Moutai was
already being made about 800 years ago, and by the 18th century Moutai had
already been regarded as "the best liquor in Guizhou". A little later, a
Qing Dynasty book about Guizhou reported that 170 tons of the "cool and
refreshing liquor" were annually produced by about 20 distilleries in the
town, using 1000 tons of grain. Until the Chishui was
dredged, Moutai was only sold locally. But with the coming of trade in
salt and liquor the business began to boom. Many wealthy people set up
distilleries and wine shops appeared everywhere. With six broad roads and
a population of more than 10,000, Maotai Town became one of the best-known
towns in North Guizhou. |
岁岁重阳，今又重阳。重阳佳节一过，一年一度的贵州茅台酒厂又进入了最繁忙的生产季节，被誉为玉液之冠的国酒茅台，有一套科学、独特、完整的酿酒工艺体系。中国贵州茅台酒厂集团董事长，世界著名评酒专家季克良先生告诉记者，茅台酒的生产流程可以用40个字概括：端午采曲，重阳投料，高温制曲，高温堆积，高温流酒，长期存酿，精心勾兑，七次蒸馏，九次蒸煮。在茅台酒生产过程中，不添加任何香精和水，完全是纯天然佳酿，形成了酱香突出，幽雅细腻，酒体醇厚，回味悠长，空杯留香持久，不上头，不刺喉的独特风格。经美国和国内著名院校科学实验证明，是使人放心的绿色食品。 “风来隔壁三家醉，雨过开瓶十里香。”原国务院副总理，国家科委主任方毅曾这样亲笔题辞赞美茅台。确实，茅台酒是中国几千年酒文化发展史的缩影，是中华酒文化达到世界高峰的象征。据《史记》记载，早在汉武帝建元六年，即公元前135年，茅台镇的土著先民就开创了酿酒史的先河。鄱阳令唐蒙奉命出使南越，路经夜郎茅台，带回了令汉武帝赞为“甘美之”的枸酱酒，以后历经唐宋元明清，茅台酒都被列为帝皇贡品。古风古韵孕育了茅台，秀山秀水滋润了茅台。1915年，在巴拿马万国博览会上，中国茅台酒终于以绝伦的芬芳，一鸣惊人，震动酒坛，喜得金奖，跻身世界名酒之林。贵州高原飞出的这支“金凤凰”从此名扬四海，香飘万邦。 中国茅台是中华民族的瑰宝，也以它超凡的价值和神奇的魅力，无愧于国酒的称号，书写了一篇又一篇外交佳话。在著名的1954年日内瓦会议上，周恩来总理代表中国政府出席会议，这是新中国成立后中国首次参加的重要国际会议，会议期间，周总理以超人的智慧和非凡的外交才华，取得了巨大的成功。周总理用醇美芳香的茅台酒宴请各国嘉宾，茅台美酒传递了中国人民热爱和平的趋势愿望。事后，总理高兴地说：日内瓦会议助我成功的有两台，一是贵州茅台，二是《梁山伯与祝英台》。 1972年，尘封了22年的中美关系终于解冻，美国总统尼克松亲自来华访问，两国政府签署了具有历史意义的《上海公报》，在周恩来总理举行的国宴上，茅台酒又在这历史的瞬间起到了奇特的纽带作用，尼克松认为茅台酒是世上少有的名酒好酒，开怀畅饮，气氛异常热烈。事后，尼克松在他的回忆录里，专门记载了他在访华的国宴上和周恩来畅饮茅台酒的趣事。在一次又一次的国事活动中，茅台酒成为宴请佳宾的美酒，展现出国酒风采，纵横于外交舞台。 中国改革开放的总设计师邓小平，一直关心茅台酒的生产，也非常爱喝茅台酒，用茅台酒招待各国贵宾。1984年12月19日，中英两国在北京人民大会堂发表联合声明，举行正式签字仪式。在中国政府举行的国宴上，英国前首相撒切尔夫人为中英双方处理好香港回归中国这一历史事件兴奋异常，与中国领导人频频举杯。美联社专门报道了此事。 中国国家主席江泽民也经常用茅台酒宴请各国领导人。尤其是俄罗斯的叶利钦总统访问中国，当江泽民主席向客人介绍茅台酒是53度时，叶利钦兴致极高，他亲自用火柴点燃盛满茅台酒的杯子，顿时燃起一束蓝色的火焰。叶利钦颇为内行地说道：53度以下的酒为红蓝色相间的火焰，53度以上的才发出蓝色火焰。 伟人钟爱茅台，贵州珍爱国酒。贵州茅台酒，作为中国民族工业率先走向世界的品牌，正在日益发展。毛泽东主席当年曾指示，茅台酒要搞它一万吨，周恩来总理明确指示茅台酒厂上游一百公里的水源区不许办厂，以防止污染。新世纪、新目标，茅台酒这一中华民族之瑰宝，正以绿色食品的通行证，香飘五洲。 | |
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Its distilleries introduced Moutai to the outside world for the first time
at the 1915 Panama World Fair. It is said that when the American sponsor
of the fair saw the curious under glazed yellow pot of Moutai, he thought
it vulgar and refused to accept it. In great indignation, the Chinese
representative smashed the bottle on the ground. As the liquor ran over
the floor, the sweetly intoxicating odor filled the hall and some
representatives present wanted a taste of it. It ended up winning the gold
medal for its excellent quality and unique flavor. Since then the liquor
has enjoyed a good reputation worldwide. As a Chinese proverb goes, the place is beautiful and so the people are outstanding. Maotai Township has charming natural scenery and pleasant weather throughout the year. The Chishui River winds its way through the valleys around the township. It provides a steady source of pure water for the uniquely flavored Moutai liquor. Maotai Township has a 2100-year history of producing good liquors. According to experts, the original inhabitants of the township brewed Goujiang liquor, which was praised by the Han Emperor Wu Di as early as in 135 B.C. During the Northern Song Dynasty (960--1127) the township produced Daqu liquor, which gained fame throughout the country. Owing to the special natural conditions
of its place of origin, pure water and sustained research by experts,
Moutai liquor has a special flavor and unique aroma. It is popular in
China because its quality, smell and taste. Made differently from other
liquors and without having any perfume added, Moutai has a natural aroma.
It is mellow and sweet, with a lingering flavor and an odor that clings to
the cup. Special distilling method takes the edge off this 106-proof
liquor, so it seldom causes headache.
Moutai is made of sorghum and wheat, half
and half mixed, fermented eight times and distilled seven times. Its
production technique is complicated and seasonal, like that of field
crops. The raw materials should be processed before the ninth day of the
ninth Chinese lunar month and the processing is completed in ten and a
half months. The raw materials are boiled seven times and condensed nine
times without addition of any water to create a more purified and aromatic
liquor. Then it is kept for half a year and tasted. If it is not up to the
standard, it will be distilled again and again until it is. The whole
process lasts about one year, after which the liquor aged for several
years. Usually several grades of Moutai are blended into a single brew
before being put on the market. Moutai liquor is famous for its
sustained aroma and mellow taste and also a source of many kinds of
fragrant liquors in China. Guizhou Moutai Distillery was a privately owned
factory in the early years of 1950s. At present it is an extra-large
state-owned enterprise. It boasts more than 400 technicians. In the past
four decades the distillery has expanded its production scale a dozen
times with a production capacity of more than 1,500 tons per year at
present. The distillery exports its products to more than 100 countries
and regions. In addition, it has won 14 gold medals at international
fairs, as well as winning a great number of national competitions. It
enjoys high prestige and occupies a special position in international and
domestic contests. At present, the distillery is active in bringing its
favorable conditions into full play and has made great efforts to
introduce new scientific and technological production methods and new
varieties. The Moutai Distillery has offered a variety of new brands of green Moutai in recent years, attracting the attention of the liquor lovers. The Moutai Distillery is right on its way to becoming one of the highest ranked enterprises of its kind in the world in the near future. | ||
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