变幻无常的白水河贯穿
一大片构造奇特的喀斯特地带
一会儿在地面上奔流
一会儿又隐没在地下世界里
一会儿在悬崖上倾泻下去
一会儿又从地底下涌出来
……
 
 
    图 / 秦 刚 彭 匡
   

  黄果树瀑布群,是以著名的黄果树瀑布为中心的一个瀑布群体,由姿态各异的十几个地面瀑布和地下瀑布组成,集中分布在450平方公里区域内的贵州北盘江支流打邦河、白水河、灞陵河和王二河上。

 

 The Huangguoshu Waterfalls including Tianxingqiao Scenic Spot are situated in Zhenning County, 150 km away from Guiyang. Located in a karst area 600-1500 meters above sea level, with a rainfall of 1300 mm, the region has long been known for its scenic beauty of crisscrossing streams and alternating peaks and gorges.
 The Huangguoshu Waterfalls are on the Baishui River in Zhenning County. Here mountains rise one after another. The mighty Baishui River, when it comes to this place, falls suddenly from the cliffs and forms a nine-stage waterfall. The Grand Fall, the largest stage, just off the Guiyang Highway, is easy to get to.
 The Grand Fall is the largest cataract in Asia, about 74 meters high and 81 meters wide. Hidden behind the waterfall is a 134-meter long Water-Curtain Cave with fantastic stalactites. The cave consists of five halls, six windows and three springs. In the cave tunnel and in the dry season, you can see the plunging water like numberless strings of pearls flying down over your head. You can't help feeling fascinated by its beauty, overwhelmed by its mystery, and thrilled by its momentum.
 On the hill opposite the cataract is a pavilion. From here visitors can have a whole view of the powerful cataract and also from here, viewers can go down into the water-curtain cave. The fall looks just like a huge curtain hanging in front of its cave. Inside the cave, six windows let you view the falls from different angles; stretching your hand out of the window, you can touch the flying water. It is amazing to watch through the cave windows the water pouring down. It looks like the Milky Way pouring down from the heaven, making the precipitous cliff tremble, while misty water droplets rise from the plunge pool, forming rainbows of dazzling brilliance in the sunlight.
 In this area there are 18 different falls, forming a picturesque view of karst landforms. The spectacular Grand Fall is the biggest in Asia. Its continuous flow of water varies in volume with the season and the control of water in the reservoir on the upper reaches of the Baishui River. On a sunny day the sight is especially beautiful as a rainbow arches over the falls with misty clouds floating slowly over the valley.
 In the flood season of June and July, there is plenty of rainfall, the waterfall pours into the Rhinoceros Pool with the force of a thousand horses galloping. While in the dry season, water would separate into several streams falling down from the overhanging cliffs like a fairy maiden's elegant hair, charming and graceful. On the top of the precipice, opposite the waterfall, stands the Pavilion where visitors can enjoy the powerful pouring down of the Grand Fall. One can feel the power in the air.
 In this area there are dozens of falls. They come together to form a cluster of cataracts, among which are the 410-m-high Dishuitan Fall, the 105-m-wide Doupotang Fall and the Luositan Fall whose beach extends as long as 350 meters. These falls present changing views at different times of the year as the water volume rises and falls with one roaring ahead, another running peacefully and still another surging high. There are different views in different seasons.
 At the lower reaches of the Huangguoshu Waterfalls, about 6 kilometers away, is the newly-opened Tianxing Bridge (Bridge of Stars) scenic spot, which is composed of three interconnected scenic attractions, namely, the potted landscape, the cave and the stone forest in water. This scenic spot is distinguished with its sights of various types, its natural stone formations of fabulous shapes, high cacti extending far and wide forming a dense forest. The Tianxing Cave (Cave of Stars), The Tiansheng Bridge, a work of nature, a stone arch flying over a deep gorge and the Silver-Chain Waterfall are all worth visiting. The Huangguoshu Guest House is very convenient and comfortable and is just beside the Grand Fall with a group of buildings in beautiful surroundings. Around it Buyi women sell their pieces of needlework: embroidered bags, cross-stitched soles, pretty headdresses and small hand-made tokens.

 
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  黄果树瀑布形成于典型的亚热带岩溶地区,统称“岩溶瀑布”。黄果树瀑布群由于分布在岩溶洞穴、明河暗湖,构成“瀑布成群、洞穴成串、星潭棋布、奇峰汇聚”的世界罕见自然景区。它位于镇宁、关岭布依族苗族自治县。有多处古迹,民间建筑奇特,民族风情浓厚。人们说:“无山不洞,无洞不奇,无村不榕,无榕不荫。有水皆成瀑,城有石头城。左手拎芭蕉,右肩挎黄橙。相逢毋须问,十九布依人。”
  黄果树瀑布群按地理位置和河流体系可划分为五大片区,即黄果树中心区、灞陵河区、天星桥区、关脚峡区和龙潭暗湖区。

黄 果 树 中 心 区

  以黄果树大瀑布为主体,包括陡坡塘、螺丝滩等瀑布,位于镇宁、关岭两自治县交界处的白水河上。
  黄果树大瀑布离贵阳市150公里,瀑布高74米,宽81米。瀑水大时,瀑布溅珠飞洒到100多米高的黄果树街上,一公里外能听到雷鸣般的响声。水小时河水仍然分成四支,辅展在整个岩壁上,不失其“阔而大”的气势。瀑布后有一长达134米的崖廊洞穴,拦腰横穿瀑布而过,由6个洞窗、5个洞厅、3股洞泉和6个通道组成。从水帘洞内观看大瀑布,令人惊心动魄。瀑布前面是一箱形岩溶洞峡谷,左为悬崖峭壁,古木森森;右为钙华坡、石笋山,芳草繁花,辅上云天;中为犀牛潭、马蹄潭,潭滩相连,逶迤相接。
  位于黄果树瀑布下游2公里处的螺丝滩瀑布,以滩面逶迤绵长为其特点。河水从拦河坝翻下,分成两股,环绕石间梯间、绿州,最后作方形交汇,形成左右相对的两个瀑布,左大而缓,右小而陡。瀑布最高处为31米,滩面逶迤长达350米。黄果树中心区还有一些小型瀑布。
  黄果树瀑布附近,有以蜡染和石头建筑著称的镇宁布依族苗族自治县安庄乡石头寨;有隐蔽在12株古老的大榕树中的关岭布依族苗族自治县白水乡滑石哨,两寨都具有浓厚的民族风情。有者斗洞和上洞,前者是旱洞,在关岭县白水乡者斗村;后者是水洞含旱洞,在镇宁自治县扁担乡上洞村。

灞 陵 河 区

  灞陵河上的关索岭深处,有一组兼高、大、多、美、奇诸特点的瀑布,名“滴水滩多层瀑布”。滴水滩瀑布位于黄果树瀑布西八公里,关岭自治县城北五公里。上半段属大桥乡鸡窝田,下半段属白水乡蛮寨。高度达410米,为黄果树瀑布的6倍,其中冲坑瀑布高140米,总高度和个体高都为黄果树瀑布群中最高的瀑布。

天 星 景 区

  天星景区是黄果树风景名胜区新开发的一个富有特色的景区,位于黄果树瀑布下游6公里处。包括天然盆景区、天星洞区景和水上石林区。
  天然盆景区是该景区较大的一片天生桥上石林。这里有大大小小的水盆和漫水坝以及一个个大大小小的天然的山石、水石盆景。弯弯曲曲的石板小道,穿行于石壁、石壕、石缝中,透迄于盆景边石之上。沿小道游览,抬头是景,低头是景,前后左右处处皆成景,仿佛到了天上仙境,地下迷宫。其著名景观有:数生步、响水洞、天水一线、空灵、仙鹰回巢、八面景、天星照影、长青峡、大肚难过、歪梳石、寻根岩、鸳鸯藤、美女榕、人生百态、天星湖等。
  天星洞景区在天星景区中段,主要景观天星洞位于冒水潭旁的河岸上。洞内形成若干大厅和侧厅,各厅自有特色。最大的厅高50米,直径150米,面积约1.8万平方米。在五光十色、变幻无穷的奇峰异石之中,4根雕花大柱直抵天穹,每根石柱高度都在20米以上。柱上石花丛生,如雕龙刻凤,色泽艳丽。洞中的许多奇景是在别的溶洞中无法看到的。其它主要景观还有:天星亭、天星桥、一线天、冒水潭、回望石等。
  沿天星洞景区往下走1公里的石板石梯小路,即可到达水上石林景区。小路沿河而建,有栈道和跌水可欣赏。小路两旁假苹婆树很多,所以叫苹婆小道。有许多天然的榕树盆景,盆景边有石条、石凳供游人休息。石林间也长着大片的仙人掌和小灌木丛以及各种花草,终年点缀着绿荫。所谓“石上流水,水上有石,石上又长树”。

关 脚 峡 区

  在黄果树下游打邦河上,与黄果树瀑布相距40多公里。山势在此陡然升高,峭壁对出,直插云宵,地势强烈深切七百余米,河水骤然跌落,形成总落差达120米的三级瀑布。打邦河将白水河、王二河、灞陵河、断桥河等纳入关脚峡瀑布,是黄果树瀑布群中水量最大的瀑布。

龙 潭 暗 湖 区

  龙潭暗湖区(安顺龙宫)的龙门飞瀑,高34米,声如雷鸣,气势磅礴,堪称地下瀑布之冠。它和龙宫的天池、暗湖三位一体,组成龙宫的绝好景观。