增冲鼓楼   
   贵州是个多民族的省份,世世代代居住着苗、布依、侗、彝、水、瑶、仡佬等少数民族。贵州各族人民在长期历发展进程中,创造了绚丽多姿的建筑文化,为丰富中华民族的文化宝库做出了独特的贡献。贵州各族民居,堪称建筑文化百花园中的朵朵奇葩。
     Zeng Chong Drum Tower

 

 

 

                     别具一格     

                   侗族民居   


   Exotic Dong Dwellings

      文/吴正光  图/吴正光 冯玉照

 China's Dong people, whose villages lie along the boundary between the three southwestern provinces of Hunan, Guizhou and Guangxi, have a distinctive and highly developed architectural tradition. This unique style is best illustrated by the two most important structures in any Dong settlement: the Drum Tower and the Roofed Bridge.
 These Drum Towers & Flower Bridges are among the highlights of the ethnic architecture. About one million Dong people live in traditional houses that project over water in the border areas of Guizhou. These houses are flanked by drum towers, flower bridges, roadside, pavilions and performance stages.
 Most Dong Drum Towers are built in the form of a many-story pagoda supported by pillars of fir. They vary from 3 to 13 tiers and reach a maximum height of 20 meters. The eaves of the ground floor are four-cornered, while those of the upper levels are hexagonal or octagonal. The front between the first and second tier is carved with dragon and phoenix patterns - symbols of village prosperity.
 The Drum Towers of the Dong Nationality, looking very like pyramids, are made of fine wood. With unique technology the Drum Towers are constructed without any nails or rivets. Their Roofed Bridges, crossing over the flowing waters, are built by means of putting the bridge, corridor and pavilion together. They are both practical, pretty and convenient.

  古时侗族地区以"峒"为单位,故称其地百姓为"峒民"。至于侗族自己则称"甘"。
  侗族住在贵州、湖南、广西三省区毗连地带,其中大半在贵州。由于住地环境及语言习惯的差异,贵州侗族分为"北侗"、"南侗"两个部分。两地民居各有特色。北侗地区的民居与当地汉族的民居极为相似,一般都是一楼一底、四榀三间的木结构楼房。屋面覆盖小青瓦,四周安装木板壁,或者垒砌土坯墙。有些侗族民居在正房前二楼下,横腰加建一披檐,此作增加檐下使用空间,形成宽敞前廊,便于小憩纳凉。
南侗地区的民居具有鲜明的地方特点和浓郁的民族特色。其地僻处苗岭南麓,溪流遍地,沟壑纵横,流水淙淙。当地侗胞,依山傍水,修建房屋。由于深受山区地形和潮湿气候的影响,几乎都建干阑式吊脚楼。楼下作猪牛圈,楼上作起居室。南侗地区盛产杉木,民居建筑体积较大,房屋高度很不一般。在竹木掩映的侗寨中,面阔五间.高三四层的庞然大物比比皆是。如果有高大宽敞的楼房,房东特别贤惠,又有能歌善舞、聪明过人的"姑娘头",便自然而然地成为青年男女谈情说爱、“行歌坐月”的理想场所,侗胞称其为"月堂"。夜幕降临,侗族后生手接“果吉”(一种乐器,形似牛腿,叫"牛腿琴"),来到"月堂",与在堂内纺纱、绣花的侗姑对唱情歌。姑娘边纺(绣)边唱,后生自拉自唱,气氛欢快。
  不少侗族民居以杉木为柱,杉板为壁,杉皮为 “瓦“,尽是杉树家族,全然杉的世界,极富民族特色.有些侗族民居巧妙建在水上,有良好的防水性能。这种民居,楼上住人,楼下养鱼,人欢鱼跃,相映成趣。何时想要吃鱼,只需揭开楼板,伸手可得。
  南侗地区民居建筑一大特点是层层出挑,上大而下小,占天不占地。每层楼上都有挑廊。廊上安装栏杆或栏板。如用栏板,还特意凿一圆形孔洞,供家犬伸头眺望。由于层层出挑,檐水抛得很远,有利保护墙脚,且可利用层层檐口,晾晒衣服和谷物。
  除利用檐下晾晒谷物外,侗族同胞还在住房附近利用杉杆搭建梯形禾晾,利用杉木修建吊脚粮仓。粮仓也多修建在水上,有利于防火,防盗、防鼠、防潮
  侗寨建房有一规矩,即围绕鼓楼修建,犹如蜘蛛网,形成放射状.鼓楼是侗寨特有的一种民俗建筑物,它是团结的象征,侗寨的标志,在侗民心目中拥有至高无上的地位。在其附近还配套侗戏楼、风雨楼、鼓楼坪,构成社会、文化活动的中心,俨然侗寨的心脏。每逢大事,寨中人皆聚此商议,或是逢年过节,村民身着盛装,在此吹笙踩堂,对歌唱戏,通宵达旦,热闹非凡。许多侗寨,为适应村民拦路迎宾送客、对歌交朋结友的特殊需要,在村头寨尾修建木质寨门。寨门造型多种多样,或似牌楼、凉亭,或似长廊、花桥,将风光如画的侗族村寨装点得更加美丽。这种别具一格的公共建筑物,虽然不是民居,却是以民居为主要载体的侗寨所不可缺少的。

  Different than those of the Miao minority people, these Dong houses projecting over water have suspended roofs. A typical Dong house has one or three rooms and two or three stories; some have four stories. The first floor is for raising poultry and domestic animals; on the second floor or above, in the front part, is an open-air area that is protected by a waist-high railing. This area is for eating and resting. At the back, there is a kitchen, a storeroom and some bedrooms. The stairs on both sides lead to the second floor and above. Each family has a fire pit in the kitchen for cooking and for heating water.           

  Historically, Dong-inhabited areas were rich with Chinese fir trees. The local people respected fir trees. Drum towers, a landmark of Dong villages, are built in the shape of a fir. In general, the drum towers are square in shape. Some are square in shape on the first and second floors and octagonal from the third to the top floor. The shortest ones have three stories while the tallest, a dozen stories. Odd numbered stories have dangling eaves. The flying eaves of all the stories are supported with golden claw pillars. Inside the tower there are no extra floors from the bottom to the top. The bottom half of the outside wall of the top floor is decorated with wooden lattice windows and the top half is covered with green-tiled roofs. Its eaves have up pointed ridges. At the canopy of the tower, there is a mast that is hung with a treasured bottle gourd. 

  In the old days, each tower housed a drum --                  hollowed birch log with ox hide stretched over it -- used to summon the village elder to council on                    important occasions, or to gather the villagers together in case of attack by enemy tribes. The                   drum was also beaten whenfire broke out, and answering rhythms from neighboring villages would                 indicate that they were also preparingto stop the flames from reading.In winter, family members sit                   around the fire pit and make tea to warm themselves up. In summer, they sit in the open-air area behind the                 railing and enjoy the mountains in the distance and the river below their houses. In spring and autumn,                  people come to the flower bridges to watch their children play. Dong houses are not built merely                   with land, wood and but also with the spirit of the villagers. The buildings demonstrate differences in                  architectural style and skill different areas.

                                      

 In the old days, each tower housed a drum -- a hollowed birch log with ox hide stretched over it -- used to summon the village elder to council on important occasions, or to gather the villagers together in case of attack by enemy tribes. The drum was also beaten when fire broke out, and answering rhythms from neighboring villages would indicate that they were also preparing
to stop the flames from spreading.

 

 Dong villages are built next to rivers and streams, and bridge construction is also an important part of Dong architecture. The roofed (or pavilion) bridge, which gives shelter to travelers in bad weather, is a popular Dong tradition. The pavilions and covered passages which span the length of the bridges are decorated with colorful murals, and they are, indeed, very beautiful.

 Dong villages are wooden kingdoms. The houses projecting over the water, the flower bridges and the drum towers, as well as the performance stages, are all built withwood. Each building consists of dozens or even hundreds of logs. All the buildings are built with tenon and mortise. No nails or rivets are used, not even wooden pegs. Dong carpenters know almost nothing about blueprints: they merely depend on their own experience, plus an angle ruler and a bamboo brush. Before construction starts, the master carpenter makes a ruler out of a bamboo tree and uses it to measure or mark the mortise and tenon points of columns or beams. The building of such structures are solid and stable.

All Dong structures are joined by mortises and tenons without the use of a single nail. At least 300 fir logs of various sizes are needed for the average drum tower and are skillfully fitted together diagonally or perpendicularly. Many Dong towers built 300 years ago are still standing steadily. The drum tower group in Zhaoxing Township is the largest and best preserved in China.


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  Guizhou a multinational province, inhabiting by the Miao, Dong, Buyi, Yi, Shui, Yao and Gela since time immemorial. They have created their own cultures with strong ethnic characteristics in the long past history. For example, their dwellings are very eye catching, each different in its own way.